January 2005
LOVE LETTER TO THE WORLD
Dear Friends,
This was originally written to be sent out at Xmas. World events took over and everyone's focus shifted.
I wanted to still send this out, because the sentiments stand.
I want to add to the list of things I love the following:
This letter is dedicated in love to all the valiant and generous souls worldwide who responded so wonderfully to the suffering of their fellow human beings in South Asia. I admire the conscience of the planet when stirred so powerfully, positively and resourcefully. You don't often get to be proud of your planet, but in this case I certainly am. Let's keep it coming!
This letter is also dedicated in love to all those sacrificing and suffering to try and bring a measure of representation to the Palestinian Authority and in Iraq. This is in no way a political statement and certainly seeks to say nothing about the pro's and con's of various positions. But not to want to see self-governance succeed is just obscene, whatever the merits or demerits of how these situations got to where they have.
The original letter now takes over...
Dear Friends,
Many of you have been after me to publish some of my favourite hotels, restaurants and places, given how much we travel, and based on some of the conversations we've shared. Rather than offer a travelogue, at this time of the year, I thought I'd just respond by putting this in the form of a "Love Letter to the World."
Let me say that this is not an exhaustive list of what is fun, or fantastic, or worthy on this amazing globe of ours, by any stretch of anyone's imagination. These are just the things that have been on my mind this year. If you get a chance, I hope you'll reflect on those that invite reflection and sample those that are 'experiential' in the best sense of that word, should the opportunity present itself. Let me know how you enjoy them, when and if you do.
My love letter to the world is dedicated to:
The Peninsula Hotel in Hong Kong, 77 years old, and as amazing and as sophisticated as any hotel can be. From the bespoke home-made onion and garlic potato chips at the bar, to the gastronomy and elegance of Gaddi's on Christmas Eve each year (with wonderful caroling by a local student chorus), to the exceptional pool and spa, to the jaw-dropping lobby with its lights and music, congtratulations! The Japanese musk melon and red bean ice cream at their Japanese restaurant Imasa are just revelations.
To Hong Kong itself, for sheer vitality, energy, spunk, enterprise, and imagination. What a city! Go to the Peak via the Peak Tram, hike up to the top, have lunch on the Peak Look-out. Definitely have a meal at M's on the Fringe (culinary talent offered with a splash of cultural insouciance), and its extraordinary sister restaurant in Shanghai, M's on the Bund.
To The Oriental Bangkok (127 plus years) and its 37 year veteran GM Kurt Wachtveitl, for giving us a true legend on the river (the Chao Phraya). For the most amazing spa, sensual Thai massages, for Normandie (extraordinarilily accomplished classical cuisine with enthralling views), Lord Jim, and Sala Rim Naam (a celebration of the medley of flavours that Thai cooking at its best represents), for the smoky and soulful world-class jazz at the Bamboo Bar, for inspiring your staff to provide service that is more attentive and gently 'intimate' than anywhere else in the world.
To the Thais themselves for their sheer attention to beauty, for their elegance and aesthetics and gentleness.
To Singapore for being such an extraordinary role-model for the region. For having discipline and now realising that discipline alone can't be enough. For Senior Minister Lee having the imagination to tell his fellow Singaporeans that after being so successfully 'efficient', it is now time to also be 'exciting' and 'cool'. To my Singaporean 'home away from home' Raffles Hotel (over 117 years), for redefining opulence and stylish grandeur. And to its current GM, Javier Rosenberg, for restoring some of the charm and elegance, through service excellence, to this wonderful gem and historical landmark.
To the Vietnamese for their character, their resilience, their heart, and their remarkable ability to let go of the past without rancor, and get on with building the future. For their industry, their enterprise, their indefatiguable energy, and the amazing development that is evident in their country. To Mandarine and Hoi An for superb, sophisticated, graceful Vietnamese meals on many a treasured night in Ho Chi Minh City. For the Sofitel's Olivier for its astounding baked mango with coconut ice-cream dessert and for catching me pleasantly by surprise with your wonderful Provencal cooking, meal after meal.
To India and Indonesia, for your amazing elections, conducted peacefully and with such wide-scale participation. For giving the world the two most populous democracies, one primarily Hindu, one primarily Muslim. Indonesia, for showing yourselves and us, how transformation can happen, and how institutions can become more important than individuals. To India, for being authentically diverse enough, to have a Roman Catholic born kingmaker (Sonia Gandhi), a Sikh Prime Minister, a Muslim President, and the soul to allow all that to work.
To the people of Sri Lanka, for their gentle hearts and gracious selves. To the century-plus traditions embodied in the venerable Hill Club among the mist-shrouded hills of Nuwara Eliya (euphemistically called 'Little England'). For the hot water bottles in bed at night, to the magnificence of the curries, the splendor of the gardens, the service traditions of the wonderful staff, to the resident ghost Ambrose (once the pool 'marker'), and the glorious strawberries with which the kitchen kindly allowed me to make my own Strawberry Fool to share with friends and loved ones.
To my native country of Pakistan, for allowing me to see, while taking senior executives on a Leadership Journey in the mountains, the hospitality and essential spirit of the people of Pakistan. Far from being bombarded with extremism, we strangers (including a number of foreigners) were met with welcome, and kindness, and respect. These people deserve far better leadership than they have received. And to the wonderful road-side restaurant, close to the remnants of the exquisite and haunting ancient Buddhist monastery of Julian, where I had the finest Chicken Karahi ever. Hats off to you for your family's 'hustle' and for the almost intoxicating freshness of all the meat, vegetables and bread. The dusty roadside was transmuted into a gustatory paradise!
To Dubai for giving the Middle East another story to tell. For being willing to undergo ongoing growing pains, and for wanting to express 'world class' in many ways. And to 3 star Michelin Chef Gordon Ramsay for opening Verre here, so I have a truly world-class place to take visiting friends and clients to; and for redefining 'creme brulee', bringing genuine innovation to hallowed practice.
To Lebanon and Jordan, for showing me the heart and depth of Middle Eastern culture, and the amazing vibrance of your arts, music, celebration, cuisine, community and hospitality. We musn't let these traditions be hijacked by extremists or marginalised by bigots. We as a world would lose so much from one of the true cradles of civilisation.
To the imams, rabbis and priests, who have been so valiantly and untiringly working for peace together, across boundaries, in the Holy Land. Often unsung, frequently in jeopardy from their own people, I bow before your courage. Thank you for exemplifying what religion, spirituality and even humanity are all about. You embody this world's hope.
To Le Melezin, the amazing Aman-run ski resort where we go to ski in Courchevel each year. For combining European sophistication with Asian service traditions. For your glorious hammam, the meals you so happily 'improvise' upon request, the sheer care with which you envelop your guests, and for Madame Sarane (whose family previously owned this hotel) being in every sense as Aman founder Adrian Zecha says: 'The best Hotel GM who never went to Hotel School.' She should start her own!
To France for giving us Victor Hugo, Voltaire, Rabelais and more. For being a place that actually combines both joie de vivre and savoir faire. Who could ask for any more than this delightfully uplifting balancing act? Oh, and thank you Michelin (not just for your tires), Gault Millau, Relais and Chateaux, and many more, for all the guidance and good times, and for being bastions of good taste and artistry.
To Geneve, for being the site of our annual sabbatical. For the sybaritic pleasures of the Parisien offshoot L'Entrecote for one of the most straightforward but most glorious meals I have each year ('orgasmic' is the only word to describe the steak 'caressed' with a sauce you would happily kidnap the chef for, and the oozing ebony splendors of the almost coquettish profiteroles). For Hotel Beau Rivage that welcomes us with such generous warmth and poise each year. For your humanitarianism Geneve and all the organisations you host, to your sheer beauty, and for continually seducing me with new watch designs each year!
To Venice (Venezia), a living museum, a paen to possibility. For Harry's Bar and to virtuoso life enthusiast and founder, Ariggo Cipriani, for showing the impact of personality and dedication and love of your craft. From the invention of carpaccio and the bellini, to being the watering hole for the rich and famous (and all the rest of us), to being a symbol of Venice over an embattled century: hurrah Arrigo and Harry's. To the canals, palaces, squares, cafes, gondola rides (no matter how corny they may have become), to the shimmering multi-coloured architectural poetry of the Serenissima (Venice is justly nicknamed 'the most serene').
To Florence (Firenze) for inspiring so many. For Bruneleschi's amazing Dome, to the immortality of Michaelangelos' David, to the magnificence of the Uffizi, to the sheer expanse of the human spirit exemplified in your Renaissance glory. And to 2 star Michelin wonder, Enoteca Pinchiorri for giving us exalted cuisine (and a remarkable wine 'degustation') in a city whose gusto had 'almost' spoiled us for your remarkable sophistication.
To England, for Shakespeare, Shaw, Dickens, Bronte, Wilde and more. For Nelson and Churchill too.
To the city of Oxford for being a 'living conversation' and an ongoing dialogue since the 12th century. To my college, University College, for having been the site of so much discovery and animation for me personally. For The Mitre for serving such first-rate liquer coffees (especially the Calypso) so inconspicuously, day after day. For my High Street Tandoori, so reluctant to open each morning whenever I now visit, and which while demonstrating all the signs of not-so-genteel decay, still serves up such a fantastic Indian lunch. To Blackwells, for reminding us of what bookstores once were and still should be. To Borders for landing even here and showing us our age is not totally down and out on this front either. To Raymond Blanc's crowning achievement, Le Manoir Au' Quatre Saisons, 2 Michelin Stars, ambrosial cuisine, flawless service, unforgettable rooms, a real passion for quality, a true pampering for all the senses.
To Bath, for being the World Heritage Site it is. For so preserving both Roman and Victorian times so splendidly. To the Royal Crescent, for the sheer sweep and magnificence of your scale and design.
To the Lake Country, and in particular the enticing village of Grasmere. For having so stimulated Wordsworth. For bewitching, picturesque walks. For the supremely romantic Michael's Nook (named after Wordsworth's shepherd), for the Great Dane that welcomes you in, to the award-winning cheese tray and dining room, and for the nocturnal sounds of love-making that waft up so enchantingly through the open windows as you settle in for the night.
To London (ie. Westminister as well as the City of London), for the Houses of Parliament and St. Paul's. For the War Rooms where Churchill's Cabinet met during WWII and for this whole city where civilization took such a powerful if improbable stand against barbarism.
For the West End and all the years of enchantment and entertainment that have emanated from there. More recently, for enabling Andrew Lloyd Weber to work his magic. And for launching Les Miserables (from its humble beginnings at the Barbican to the West End when I first exulted in it in 1985 as an Oxford undergrad) so that it could go and storm theaters, hearts and barricades around the world. For the Four Seasons Hotel, for having been there for me from childhood to now. For the best Concierge team on the planet. Honestly, Le Clefs D'or (the 'golden keys' signify the professional achievement of top concierges) should come and honour these lads and lasses as a true 'dream team' for their profession. For John who plays the piano with greater passion and pathos and flair than you can almost imagine (first floor, Four Seasons Park Lane), and who makes each London visit complete.
To Niagara-on-the-Lake in Canada for having the vision to create and successfully present for over 42 years the extraordinary Shaw Festival (dedicated to the works of Shaw and his contemporaries). World-class theater in a picture-book setting. These are plays that speak to the very heart and urgency of our contemporary dilemmas. Don't hesitate, go! To the Festival Theater for also ordering each year the best Carrot Cake I've ever tasted. To the team at Vintage Inns for their exceptional properties and for the lovely Lakeview Villa which has been our 'home' for a part of each summer. To Peller Estates, for lovely meals at sunset matched with your fine wines, but mostly for innovating the Ice Wine Martini. Unlikely as it sounds, you made a believer out of me on that front. To the Vintage Cars and Carriages for making this wonderful snapshot of a beautiful era complete.
To Langdon Hall in Cambridge, Canada for your Relais & Chateaux charms, for your beds which make getting up each morning such a chore, for getting me 'stoned' at your Spa thanks to Stefan's Hot Stone Massage, for your remarkable cuisine, and for the well-manicured croquet lawns that for reasons I can't quite fathom get my blood pumping in such a competitive frenzy each year (now if they'd only floodlight those damned things!).
To The Four Seasons Toronto for taking such great care of us and making us almost homesick for a hotel. To Opus for having one of North America's great wine cellars and for the imagination that sired your Sour Apple Martini.
Last but not least for this particular love letter, to the United States. However imperfectly expressed at times, for your founding ideals. For Washington, Hamilton, Jefferson, Lincoln, and FDR. For proving we could make it without monarchs, and that a human constitution could endure over time. For showing we could not only take on others, but take on ourselves when we've needed to, time after time.
For my home city of New York, I love you plain and simple. For being arguably the great city of the 20th century (as London and Paris were respectively in the preceding centuries), for arguably being the world's capitol city (Giuliani, the Pope, and I are unanimous on this one). For Broadway, Wall Street, for being the home of the U.N., for publishing houses, universities, libraries, fashion houses, media and more. For being such a teeming city while still being essentially a collection of small neighborhoods. For all the ethnic diversity you've welcomed, and for all the creativity that together has been produced.
For being truly international and even global. For Chinatown, for blintzes, for warm pastrami on rye, for bagels and lox, for papaya king hot dogs, New York pizza and cheesecake, for Peter Luger's redefining the Porterhouse, for Daniel's and Jean George's having even Parisiens smacking their lips, for Gramercy Taverrn and 21 giving us real American originals worthy of the name. For Carnegie Hall which has helped to "democratise" the arts, and the Met, the Frick, Moma and all their other kissing cousins, to Central Park as a true haven and not just a "trophy."
For your unbowed majesty Manhattan post 9/11 and for not succumbing to cynicism and despair. For showing me your spirit during the last black-out, when neighbors helped each other, artists gave impromptu performances gratis, and food and even walking shoes were being freely shared on the streets. However dark it seemed, the real lights kept shining. Long may they continue to do so.
For all the above and more, as 2005 is being rung in my dear friends, I write appreciatively and fondly. I write in love and gratitude. I write mostly humbled and in awe at the sheer sweep of this world's lessons, inspirations and treasures!
Here's to the next chapter...
Yours,
OK
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